There’s something so special about meeting people on your travels, and then later being reunited and sharing more memories together.
I met Cielo and Pato during my yoga teacher training in India, and, as you can probably imagine, that kind of experience makes you forge bonds with people pretty quickly. When we finished the course, and went back to our lives, we stayed in contact. Then, I found myself searching for my next adventure, in Europe, and remembered that they lived in the mountains in Spain.
Now, visiting Sierra Nevada in November, is different from visiting it in the cooler months of December or January, or even in the summer months. November is a purgatory-like time, where the ski season is looming, but hasn’t quite begun, and the summer has just drawn to a close.
I hadn’t done much research before going, probably a mistake on my part, as I knew I’d be spending time with my friends who knew the area well. I didn’t realise how quiet it would be, but in fact, I think this was exactly what I needed. I wanted to be in an environment that always makes me feel calm and grounded - the mountains - and to reunite with friends. I needed to study - as it was reading week for University - and work remotely - and my friends had made me up a room where I had my own desk, which was ideal. This meant I could do the same things I would be doing at home, but just in a new setting.
Sometimes I think I feel this pressure, as someone who travels often, to always be doing something, visiting a place, or having an itinerary. But sometimes the true essence of travel lies in doing nothing - just being present, taking it all in. It’s not just about rushing to see the next attraction, or finding places to visit. It can just be the refreshing feeling of not being around the familiar, having a break from the city - which is often needed - living in a place like London.
To get there, I flew from London Gatwick to Malaga (the cost was under £100 - and that was because I decided to treat myself and pay for cabin luggage). From there, I got an Alsa bus for £14 to Granada, which takes around 2 hours. From the central bus station my friend picked me up and we drove up to their house, hidden away in the mountains.
But, first we grabbed lunch in Granada, and we bought some groceries for the next few days (as once you’re in Sierra Nevada village it’s pretty isolated). We ended up driving to their house at sunset time, and we stopped at various viewpoints on the way up. The vistas were stunning of the snow-capped peaks, due to it being early November, contrasted with the Andalusian plains. The Sierra Nevada mountain range is one of the most notable in Europe, and its national park is recognised as a UNESCO world heritage site.
By the way I'd recommend renting a car - it's the best way to really see and move around the mountain region. There’s not a lot of public transport in the wilderness, as can be expected - there’s one bus a day at 5pm which can take you back down to Granada.
Despite being in the Southern part of Spain, known for its warmer breeze, the temperatures are pretty cool, because of the altitude. As the region gets ready for the bustling ski season, in the month of November, the temperature begins to decrease. In the warmer months, it’s a hotspot for hikers and nature enthusiasts, with its dramatic peaks and serene valleys. But, as the winter season approaches, those searching for top-level winter sport activities begin to accumulate.
So what is there to do in the quiet town of Sierra Nevada in the off-season time? Well, one thing about me is I LOVE to see places during the off-season. This means fewer crowds, lower costs, more of a local experience, relaxed atmosphere and improved availability. Many places I’ve visited in the quieter months are still just as good as they are during peak season, or even better - take Malta, for example.
There are a few nice restaurants that are open in November, in the town, although many shops are closed due to the lack of customers. We went to Telesillas, which is a cosy restaurant with cable-car-like booths. But aside from this, we mainly cooked together in the chalet, things from homemade Chapati to tacos.
In my friends' house, they had a dedicated yoga space, which was perfect so we could practise together, after 5 months since our last time doing so. The space evoked tranquillity and spirituality, with Indian artefacts, like brass statues of deities, as well as incense burning. Large windows offered views of the distant mountains, their silhouettes forming amongst the morning mist or setting of the sun. The aura reminded me of the time we spent together in India, learning about the practice, and how now we were able to share our journeys and learnings with each other.
As my friend has a dog, called Pata, we visited spots that she regularly goes to for dog walks. One was the Centro Etnografico Museum, Circuito Deportivo, where there is a woodland area, or “bosque”, that circles the mountains. Here you will find wild mushrooms among the terrain, overwhelmingly tall trees, and a museum. It’s the perfect place for a leisurely walk with breathtaking mountain views.
Looking for more of a challenging hike? Then, there is Pico de Veleta, the second highest peak in Sierra Nevada National Park, and the third in all of mainland Spain, at an altitude of 3398m. Hoya de la Mora is where the trailhead begins, at 2500m. You can take the bus or drive there pretty easily. I didn’t end up doing this hike…but I’d love to come back and do it one day, as many said it’s a must!
The flora and fauna of the Sierra Nevada are rather unique - due to the fact the region was formed by the collision of the African and Eurasion tectonic plates during the Tertiary period. We spotted a couple of Spanish ibex, a mammal you are likely to come across while trekking in the area. However, they are quick to run away, as you approach - especially when you have a dog in tow, like we did.
The Monte Ahi de Cara, Vista Oeste is a viewpoint, at 2100m altitude. Just a very short walk from the parking lot, you reach the point where there are views of the town, Granada, below, as well as the surrounding mountains, and snowy peaks. There’s also a cave here, although I’m not quite sure of its purpose, and there wasn’t anyone around to ask.
Driving around the Sierra Nevada mountains is enough on its own - there’s just one mind blowing view after another. And there are many points in the roads where you can stop, get out, and just be mesmerised by all that’s around you.
And the sunsets are just incredible…the hues of orange that disperse over the mountainous landscape. And the best part - I could watch it happen from my friends’ doorstep. Sadly, I eventually had to leave the serenity of the mountains after 3 days of yoga, sunsets, and walks. I shared a lift back to Granada, and got the tram a few stops to El Granado Hostel. More to come on my solo-time in Granada soon!
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